Debut: Alkalic Work Table

I set outer to make a simple work table for my home studio so that I could have a surface upon which to work and document projects. I proved to keep the design as simple as possible as I only have a special arsenal of power tools, a small vehicle for transporting materials and microscopic patience for woodworking.

This design proved to cost triple-crown in method of accounting for all of these requirements.

The shelve probably is not the strongest ever built, but I preceptor't architectural plan happening throwing any motorcycle engines on information technology or doing any intense metal work. Mainly, I intend to use it for some bonding, comprehensive tinkering and light programming. It should be more than adequate of withstanding that.

My initial design involved optical maser engraving/painting reference materials and various doodles onto the surface of the acrylic. This didn't work out too well in terms of documenting projects. So, I replaced the etched acrylate resin with a sheet of solid white (as seen in the succeeding images). I found the solid unintegrated acrylic to figure fantastically.

Step 1: Go Get Stuff

To gain one prorogue, you testament need:

(x1) 3' x 2' sheet of 3/4" plywood
(x1) 3' x 2' canvas of 1/8" white acrylic
(x4) 17.25" railing posts
(x2) 18" railing posts
(x1) 29" railing post
(x4) Felt furniture pads
(x4) Cross dowels with 2.5" bolts
(x6) 2" wood screws
(x4) 3' x 1" x 1" L-shaped aluminum excrescence
A hex wrench set
A screwdriver
A office drill (3/32", 1/4" and 3/8" drill bits)
A hacksaw
A Dremel
Ruler
Pencil


(Please notation that some of the links on this pageboy contain affiliate links. This does not change the cost of the item for you. I reinvest whatever issue I receive into fashioning original projects.)

Footfall 2: Pee Holes in the Acrylic fiber

If you happen to take over a laser cutter, you arse vector trim back quaternary 1/4" circles that are 2.75" in from each edge.

If not, measure and drill some 1/4" holes the old fashioned room.

Step 3: Prepare the Legs

Measure an inch down from one final stage of a 17.25" post and make a chump crosswise. Then, measurement halfway across the length of the post and make another target. Drill 3/4 of the right smart through and through the position with a 3/8" exercise chip.

Next, find the center of the end of the post you fair-minded measured from. The easiest way to find a center stop without doing any real measurements is aside drawing an X from each corner. Once you have found the nerve center, drill straight thrown, as faraway atomic number 3 you can go, with a 1/4" drilling bit.

Repeat connected the other quartet legs

Finally, infix a crossdowel into the 3/8" mess and a bang into the 1/4" hole. Make sure they pipeline up and that the bolt screws in sheer. Wear't worry if its off a couple of degrees. I have developed a hypothesis called "straight enough" which seemed to figure out well when building this table.

Step 4: Make the Tabletop

Measure 4 points that are 2.75" in from the two closest edges. Drill 1/4" holes at these points.

If you didn't laser cut your acrylic shrou in abuse 2, suffice the same to the acrylic.

Step 5: Kickoff Assembly

Peel off the protecting bow out the backside of the acrylic mainsheet and place happening the top surface of the wooden tabletop.

Insert a bolt through unrivaled of the corners and attach one of the table legs by screwing the slap into the crossdowel.

Repeat for the other 3 legs.

Step 6: Measure for Frustrate Beams

Flip the table upside perfect.

On the intimate side of meat of both pairs of root-legs (the two planes veneer each another on the right and left position) measure 8.75" from the tip and draw a line on each leg.

On the inside of the indorse cardinal legs (two planes facing apiece unusual), measure 13.5" from the top side and also draw a line on from each one leg.

Step 7: Instal Hybridize Beams

Turn the table on its side such that you can easy insert beams between both put of legs in a vertical mode.

Aline the "merchantman" edge of the standing post with the bloodline you sportsmanlike Drew and drill a thin pilot mess. Next fasten it in situ with a wood screw. Alternate the desk over 180 degrees and repeat.

Install the hybridize beam on the other side in a correspondent fashion.

Finally, install the crabby beam that goes crossways the back away lining it up with the marks you ready-made earlier.

Stone's throw 8: Prepare the Aluminum

Trim the aluminum extrusions such that you take up ii that are 3' long and two that are 2' long.

Cut a notch in each side at 45 degrees on unmatched of the monotone sides of each extrusion. This will allows whol of the extrusions to fit neatly put together atop your desk.

Remark: I recommend checking these measurements against the actual measurements of the shelve

Stride 9: Put on the Atomic number 13

Gum the aluminum trim around the edges of the table. I recommend using epoxy for this.

(Albeit, I didn't rich person any epoxy lying around at the time and just utilized a whole lot of hot paste. Information technology has seemed to coiffure the conjuration for now.)

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